Light combs can be protected by increasing the flow of light and air through the supers containing them. This is best done under a covered, open-walled shed located outside. Supers containing combs to be protected this way can be stacked at right angles to one another to increase light and airflow through the stack (Figure 7). Although not applicable to every beekeeper's style, this storage method provides maximum ventilation and lighting
Frame Rack System (Method 3)
Notice that actually the system (below, Method 3 - Rack System) is primarily for cold-weather outdoor or semi outdoor storage of frames. Often more suitable for short-term storage. However, the system is effective for many reason of which I consider the main three as: Provides ventilation, sunlight, dryness. Wax moths thrive in dark, damp, unventilated areas.
Many will say... Baaahhh just simply put them in a freezer. Yes, if you have a freezer large enough and plenty extra freezer space around your home, then that is great, but also involves putting them in huge plastic bags, shrink wrap, or other measures (unless you have a freezer dedicated for this purpose. If you wish to do freezer or use insecticide "Paramoth" methods they are included on the video as Method 1 (Freezer Method works well for frames with capped honey) and Method 2 (Paramoth treatment for those that don't mind or have no problems using insecticides); however, our focus is on the videographer's favorite method... the Frame Rack System.
I store mine (even in hot, humid, Florida summers) on a rack system using shelf-standard rail brackets like those used in the first video. (I am assuming aluminum angle railing and other things may span farther and actually work better... some use lumber). Keep rain off it in some manner (but elevated above tops of frame to keep good air flow... not resting on tops of frames) Always space the frames apart a bit more than they are in the hive to give more sunlight, air, and ability to dry out. I find solitaire/native (green bees, etc.) clean a lot from the frames... even propolis. Fire ants remove the proteins, but leave the wax.
Some people fuss about ants, bugs, and things; however, I find that ants do a great job cleaning up the proteins, bee bread, etc. which typically present a problem when storing frames, since it is best to store frames that are not heavy with bee breads and proteins that can attract other things (mice, etc.). I would rather have bugs and ants cleaning the frames than mice or racoons. There are other methods of stacking supers with frames still in them, provided you maintain a dry air-flow, but a little more difficult to get the sunlight.
Personally I find this method (Method 3 - Frame Rack System) may be a hassle, but keeps frames ready when I need them and definitely not the hassle caused by using moth crystals, chemicals, sealing up frames, freezing, etc. Or I use it as a cleaning method to render the frames free of proteins, goo, pollen, etc... before I long-term store by another method. Best thing is to keep as many of the frames in hives with bees as possible... they know exactly what and how to clean/store their frames, but be careful not to give them too much empty space to patrol and protect or you will create hive beetle and/or other pest problems.
Not everything works for everybody and there are soooo many beekeepers who find their own method(s) work best. however, I place these here, so you can see what a few people are doing with the frames when not being used on their hives.
WARNING: Just because something works for me or for others does NOT mean it will work for you. Eventually you'll find what works for you. Listen to those that are in your similar situation. If you have 3 hives seek advice from those that regularly work their 3 hives in your area. If you have 20 or more hives... the game changes quickly.
Many will say... Baaahhh just simply put them in a freezer. Yes, if you have a freezer large enough and plenty extra freezer space around your home, then that is great, but also involves putting them in huge plastic bags, shrink wrap, or other measures (unless you have a freezer dedicated for this purpose. If you wish to do freezer or use insecticide "Paramoth" methods they are included on the video as Method 1 (Freezer Method works well for frames with capped honey) and Method 2 (Paramoth treatment for those that don't mind or have no problems using insecticides); however, our focus is on the videographer's favorite method... the Frame Rack System.
I store mine (even in hot, humid, Florida summers) on a rack system using shelf-standard rail brackets like those used in the first video. (I am assuming aluminum angle railing and other things may span farther and actually work better... some use lumber). Keep rain off it in some manner (but elevated above tops of frame to keep good air flow... not resting on tops of frames) Always space the frames apart a bit more than they are in the hive to give more sunlight, air, and ability to dry out. I find solitaire/native (green bees, etc.) clean a lot from the frames... even propolis. Fire ants remove the proteins, but leave the wax.
Some people fuss about ants, bugs, and things; however, I find that ants do a great job cleaning up the proteins, bee bread, etc. which typically present a problem when storing frames, since it is best to store frames that are not heavy with bee breads and proteins that can attract other things (mice, etc.). I would rather have bugs and ants cleaning the frames than mice or racoons. There are other methods of stacking supers with frames still in them, provided you maintain a dry air-flow, but a little more difficult to get the sunlight.
Personally I find this method (Method 3 - Frame Rack System) may be a hassle, but keeps frames ready when I need them and definitely not the hassle caused by using moth crystals, chemicals, sealing up frames, freezing, etc. Or I use it as a cleaning method to render the frames free of proteins, goo, pollen, etc... before I long-term store by another method. Best thing is to keep as many of the frames in hives with bees as possible... they know exactly what and how to clean/store their frames, but be careful not to give them too much empty space to patrol and protect or you will create hive beetle and/or other pest problems.
Not everything works for everybody and there are soooo many beekeepers who find their own method(s) work best. however, I place these here, so you can see what a few people are doing with the frames when not being used on their hives.
WARNING: Just because something works for me or for others does NOT mean it will work for you. Eventually you'll find what works for you. Listen to those that are in your similar situation. If you have 3 hives seek advice from those that regularly work their 3 hives in your area. If you have 20 or more hives... the game changes quickly.
